Saturday, December 3, 2011

reflexes

I'm sure I've experienced an earthquake before. But all I can remember are the drills in elementary school when you get to miss class and giggle with friends while sitting in the basement with a book over your head. My fourth grade teacher Mrs. Hahn would be disappointed in my recent inability to react to the earthquake off the coast of Bali.  I was visiting a turtle conservation hatchery, hanging out with this cute little guy, when schoolkids on a field-trip all started screaming and running out from the covered awning. (Clearly they've practiced more recently than I have). Confused and apparently incapable of catching on, I sat tight with my turtle friend. I carefully placed him back in his tub and asked what was going on as I casually walked out from the shaking roof above my head. Nice reflexes.


The guy who was taking me around the hatchery was trying his best to explain the situation.  At no fault of his own he confused the word earth for war. Don't ask me how but he did. So making a scary face, moving his hands in a shaky motion he just kept repeating: "war, war, warrrr"... I thought I was going crazy. Indonesia in a war? But with who? And does that mean that was a bomb? Finally (a wee bit delayed) I realized that it was an earthquake and he was trying to describe that rather than tell me we were under attack. Right, got it.


Thanks to everyone who sent worried emails asking about my well being.  Apart from minor casualties around the island everything went back to normal rather quickly. Besides realizing, in yet another light, that I'm an idiot, all is well :)

catherine and ben arrive in indonesia!

There are times when things just seem to good to be true. And this is one of them... I'm in an amazing part of the world and I get to see someone I love and care for immensely. In Indonesia! I just can't get over how wonderful it is that the travel plans of my lovely cousin and her main man accidentally came together with mine. (Not to say that I didn't work some serious Jeti mind-tricks to convince them to get over here) They were nice enough to let me tag along for a solid part of their trip- they were too sweet to never make me feel like the ultimate 3rd-wheeler I was :)

they're here!

We spent our time first in Kuta where we met up- Catherine and Ben surfing, I making trips to the immigration office in the town over to renew my visa. Then we were off to the Gilis... I told yall I'd go back! For the super-active, busy-body selves that they are, I was very happy when both Ben and Catherine sank into the island no-schedule-schedule pretty easily. As we have discussed, I now know I am good at this, but was thrilled to have them on board as well.

traditional long-boat ride to the Gilis

Each morning on Gili Meno was spent with a morning chat session between Catherine and I. While Ben meditated and did his thing Catherine and I probed into every topic under the sun. Most centered around our strong wanderlust spirits, the need for a constantly stimulating environment, speculating where in the hell our lives will end up, and our amazing (and crazy) family.  Even though I've always known we were similiar, it was a comforting realization and blessing to discover exactly how much we really do have in common and how easily she and I can relate. I feel lucky beyond measure to call her family and friend :)

lotus temple in the center of Ubud

After a few days of beach going Catherine and Ben both had the itch to get to Ubud, a place they both had been looking forward to very much. And with good reason. Ubud is an incredible place. While it may not be what it once was, who can really argue against a culturally and artistically rich town surrounded by lush rice paddy fields and temples? Not us! so we headed straight there from the Gilis. I was actually suppossed to be on my way to Sanur but in a hitch-hiking misunderstanding (weird, how could that happen?)  it just ended up being easier for me to go with them. I didn't need to have my arm twisted and if anything on this trip I've learned to be flexible and go with the flow.


After just a night in Ubud I let them finally have some time together and headed back to the coast to Sanur. Catherine and Ben spent the rest of their trip in and around Ubud enjoying all the fantastic activities it has to offer- great food, yoga, spas, walks along rice fields, more temples than you could ever imagine... you can hear about their trip on Catherine's amazing blog:  http://desphotosetmots.blogspot.com/ She an absolutely remarkable photographer and writer so I suggest you check it out. 


It was tough to say goodbye but the astonishing fact that we were lucky enough to share some time together in Indonesia made it easier. I'll hang out in Sanur for a few days until I leave for Taiwan (more on that later) for about 2 weeks. They'll head back to their lives in beautiful Jackson Hole, Wyoming to continue adventuring and doing the good things that good people like them do. 

Friday, December 2, 2011

sumbawa

One more island further East in Indonesia, Sumbawa is known as a serious surfers island. Why am I going then? Good question. Better answer: to lay on the beach.


After hitchhiking my way across this island and finally getting to a beach, I landed in the mining town of Maluk. I should have done my homework a bit better. I arrived at night (normally something I avoid at all costs) and could not find anywhere to stay that wasn't asking for a ridiculous amount of money. After asking around I finally found a lively little place that was nice enough so I settled in for the night.  I immediately changed rooms after the first had more cockroaches than I could handle and the secind had a  faucet that actually delivered running water. It gets better. Turns out this lively little place cranks up around 11pm when I swear there was a competition between the neighboring bars to see who could play their karaoke music the loudest. It's alright, I have earplugs. I fell asleep for about one golden hour only to awake to sounds that earplugs unfortunately cannot drown out. I'll spare you the details but I realized, real quick, that I had basically checked myself into a brothel. Awesome. Needless to say I didn't get too much sleep and checked out as fast as I could the next morning, after taking the equivalent of about 9 showers. I guess that's what I get for being a cheap ass.


Luckily the next spot, Sekongkang is home to these beautiful beaches (and wonderfully safe, clean and cheap bungalows). I met some great people that were wonderful company on this nearly deserted part of the island. Here got in some serious practice at becoming a good beach goer.


After a few days of practice and checking out the other parts/ beaches of the island I became impressed with my new found ability. It's amazing how enjoyable doing nothing is. As ridiculous as this may sound, I have a point. Those of you who know me best know that I'm not so good at not being busy. My mind is constantly spinning with thoughts of what I need to do, should be doing, could be planning, etc... Being still is a lesson I will consistently have to relearn. These beaches showed me that I am a quickly progressing student :)


To my defense, a large part of why I am lazying around all day is because I'm killing time (in the best way possible, I agree) until my wonderful cousin, Catherine, and her lovely boyfriend, Ben come to Bali. I have been so flipping excited about them getting here I can hardly stand it! They have been making plans to go travel for awhile now and the universe smiled on us when we realized our travel dates coincided. I feel lucky beyond belief to be able to share this amazing experience and country with them. Just a few more days and I meet them back in Kuta, Lombok!

lombok

Ever since I set foot in Indonesia I have heard constant whispers about a magical place called the Gili Islands, 3 islands located off the northern coast of Lombok ( island east of Bali). People rave about these tiny islands and all they have to offer- brought in by wooden long boats to beautiful beaches, no motorized transport, white sand, crystal clear water, amazing diving and snorkeling... I was beginning to think this place might be too good to be true. But to my surprise and delight, the Gilis turned out to be everything they're talked up to be!


We first stayed on Gili Trawangan, "the party island." Now how to describe this place? Imagine loads of travelers (the majority of which are messed up on Lord knows what) crammed onto a beautiful, tiny island. It might sound terrible, and kinda is depending on your mood, but it's beautiful enough to withstand the obnoxious people. Despite getting asked questions like: "So, you like came here for the beach and shrooms, too?? Ya bra, Gili T is the shit. Riggggght?" from a 67 year old Australian man who was still drunk at 9 in the morning, we had a blast :) Much like Vasae, Robert and Bene are the kind of company that always ensure a good time no matter where they are. We enjoyed our days hanging out on the beach (fantastic people watching), ending each day at the sunset bar before going out for dinner and some Bintang beer. Pretty good schedule if you ask me. We decided to shake things up and take the boat to Gili Meno, the next island over known for being more chilled out, to go snorkeling for the day. Immediately upon reaching the island we made plans to move. Gili Meno is bonkers beautiful.. Same amazing setting (it's a long stones throw from Gili Trawangan) but without the crowds and a better, more laid back vibe. Hello, paradise! I have found you again. 


In a wonderful accident-turned-miracle we were able to rent a house, an entire house!, for the same cheap price as a bungalow. We were all a bit silly about the extra space, the private little walk out to the beach, the secluded spot... if that house had had a kitchen I think I would've stayed forever. The same basic schedule ensued- days spent at the beach, snorkeling, lazing around and simply enjoying the island. Life is good.



Here we are one day after playing around a bit on the beach. The night before one of the local staff emerged from the water with an octopus latched onto his shoulder. "Look what I caught for dinner?!" he bragged as he walked past our bale and over to the grill. Well, we had delicious and, needless to say, fresh octopus that night for dinner. This place is a dream. Robert and Bene were joking around that I was their best catch of the day :)


For some strange reason we decided to move on and leave Gili Meno (I will be back, just you wait and see) and headed to Kuta, Lombok. Not to be confused with Kuta, Bali - Kuta, Lombok is a much smaller, much more laid back, surfers paradise. It was high-time my surfing skills were revealed to the world.

Naturally I was nervous about finally unleashing my skills so the first few days we enjoyed the amazing beaches of Kuta. As you can see below these beaches are much different than the ones at the Gilis but absolutely stunning in their own right.

We found a surfing instructor, headed to Gerupuk, took a long boat out to the waves and before we knew it were mastering the waves with the best of 'em... Yeah right. I got my shit rocked. While I did get up on the 2nd wave (not so bad, huh?!) I did fear drowning each time I got to the end of the wave and/or fell off the board. I'm sure to the super-cool, super-experienced surfers out there the waves were tiny but to Benedikt and I they were huge. Despite our nonmastery we had a blast. Surfing is SO fun! I now understand why generally all surfers are smokin' hot- because they beat their bodies by paddling for hours on end. Not this girl; I couldn't lift my fork for the next 2 days.

Sadly, it's time for Robert and Benedikt to go back to Germany and I will miss them terribly. They have become 2 wonderful friends that I know I will see again. Next stop, Germany? We shall see :) In the meantime I'm going to rebuild my shattered dreams of being a pro-surfer and try my luck at being a really good beach goer. Wish me luck.

Thursday, October 13, 2011

motorbiking in bali

Meet ze Germans! Here are my 2 new buddies, Robert and Benedikt.  We first met in Singapore (Benedikt is the lucky man who dates my buddy, Erin) and we happened to meet up again in Bali. These 2 took me under their wings and allowed me to tag along with them for a bit... it was wonderful having Robert take the lead as he studied abroad in Bali a few years ago and knows the ropes well and having Bene as a constant source of entertainment :) Here we are in the back of a truck, hitch-hiking on the island of Lombok.


Before heading to Lombok we rented motorbikes on Bali and headed north to get away from the crowds and see some other places in Bali. First stop was Ubud, a town I could easily stay in forever. Filled with temples, museums, art galleries, rice paddy fields galore... this place is beautiful. We made a stop at the famous Monkey Forest where monkeys run around all over the place. Luckily there are these monkey whisperer guys who keep them relatively in-line. This guy was more interested in his banana than in say, trying to steal something off one of the tourists, which they are known for doing. Somehow though, these guys aren't as scary after having had my run-in with the massive orangutans back in Sumatra.


From Ubud we drove on what felt like an endless road of rice paddy fields to end the day in Tirta Gangga.  We woke up to go visit the Water Palace and realized we had accidentally chosen a homestay that overlooks the palace, what luck! After enjoying our breakfast overlooking the palace, we hopped around on the little stone paths that go through the different pools surrounded by gardens and amazing flowers... such a beautiful place to visit :)



Next we headed straight for the coast where we planned to go snorkeling in Tulamben, a town known for its famous dive-site where the US Liberty boat sank just off the coast. The drive there was absolutely gorgeous as we winded up and down mountains that opened up to this valley- mountains, farms, palm trees, ocean off in the distance- what more could you ask for in am amazing view?! Once we snaked down this road we reached Tulamben and the snorkeling really was awesome. The boat is super close to the shore so its easy to reach and you can even swim through some of the parts of the sunken ship.  I chickened out but the boys had fun while I looked on and swam with the pretty fishies :)


We ended the day in the quiet fishing town of Lovina where we enjoyed a delicious fish dinner and beers on the beach... I know, another picture of a sunset... I can't help it.


The next morning we headed to the waterfalls of Gitgit.  On the way to the waterfalls we came across this guy, struggling alone with a huge mattress trying to make his way through the jungle. As we watched him bump into a palm tree, Robert and Benedikt decided to lend a hand. They got more than they bargained for as they had to carry this thing up a steep path quite a ways to this guys' home. His family was very appreciate and were kind enough to invite us to sty for coffee. We enjoyed the visit and the wonderful coffee that's grown right there on their family farm.




The last bit of our motorbike trip was down through the mountains where a few lakes and beautiful lookouts are hidden. Before getting back to the more citied areas we passed through some sweet strawberry fields where we devoured some yummy little strawberries and continued on our way.


The trip was a wonderful success and I somehow, again, managed to not kill myself by way of motorbike... Now it's off to Lombok (by way of ferry)  in the morning!

bali!

Another place I have been looking forward to for a very long time... welcome to Bali, yall! 

Luckily I was forewarned about how crowded it is in certain places in Bali, like this beach here in Kuta. While the beach is beautiful and the locals friendly, I'd be a millionaire if every sunburnt, drunk Aussie in a Bintang man-tank was worth a penny. No offense, it's just a fact.


I'm planning on looking like this guy in a few days... while I've never really tried surfing (does Folly Beach in Charleston actually count??) I am hoping that all these years I simply haven't known that I was a pro-surfer in hiding. We'll see how that goes. Until I actually get out there and try it, I'll just take pretty pictures of surfers at sunset...

future, here we come

and this is one of the many reasons why I LOVE Asia...

matching stripped socks, loafers, popped collars, and ipads. only in Singapore :)

hey hey singapore city

Welcome to Singapore! The land of impressively tall buildings, massive ships from all over the world, more shopping malls than you'd ever want to imagine and some serious air conditioning...

I came to Singapore to meet up with my beloved friend, Alison, from UGA and her lovely friend, Katie, who are at the end of their month long trip in SE Asia. It makes my day when I get to see Alison at home so you can only imagine my excitement due to the fact that we get to hang out in Singapore! She's one of my favorite human beings on this planet so it was wonderful getting to catch up with her and get a little piece of home. Naturally we spent most of our time talking, sharing stories from each others' trips, eating a lot, drinking wine (oh how I have missed it), and giving each other hugs.
When not sitting by the pool catching up we managed to do our best to see some of Singapore.  We visited the famous Singapore Zoo, the beautiful botanical gardens where we had a lovely picnic, little India, and a few of the bazillion shopping malls that offer up some of the best people watching in Asia.


We were also lucky enough to meet 2 German friends while in Singapore. Another dear friend from UGA, Erin, let us know that her boyfriend and friend would also be traveling in Singapore at the same time so we all planned to meet up. What we thought would be an innocent little meet-up turned into a ridiculous night of drinking on a bridge, meeting some awesome locals and riding around in a tiny, vintage Bug. Don't ask me how it happened, it just did. That's kinda how things work with these German guys, more to come on them later...

salamat datang sumatra! it's indonesia!

After a long awaited arrival, I've finally made it to Indonesia! The more I heard about Indonesia, the more excited I became to get to this massive, diverse and beautiful country. After spending a few weeks exploring Sumatra I can definitely say I love this country and cannot wait to see the other islands. For a quick rundown of Sumatra I'll mainly let my pictures do the talking but the exploration went as such: 

Getting my bearings in the hill town of Bukittinggi, mountain biking and enjoying small town culture in Lake Meninjau, swimming in the lovely Lake Toba, amazing diving and lazy beach days on the stunning Pulau Weh, visitng mosques, eating too much good food and joining in the end of Ramadan celebration, Idul Fitri, in Medan and almost getting attacked in the jungles of Bukit Lawang by Mina, an enormous female orangutan famous for having attacked over 70 guides...

incredibly chatty and friendly school girls I met at the park in Bukittinggi who were more than happy to practice their English and giggle over their love for Justin Beiber 

one of the many adorable wooden houses sprinkled around Lake Meninjau, all adorned with more flowers than you could imagine



lovely bike ride with rice paddy fields, hidden houses and perfect views of the lake

my favorite swim spot on Lake Toba

remarkable view of the bay from my beach bungalow on Pulau Weh



 largest mosque in Medan

Idul Fitri street parade celebrating the end of Ramadan (Muslim practice of fasting from sunrise to sunset for a whole month)

Mina and her little baby that's so ugly he's cute. This is just before she headed down the trail after us... luckily the lure of bananas got her off our path long enough for us to pass and get out of her territory :)


t-time in malacca


After Vasae's departure (and a mini what-am-I-going-to-do-without-her? breakdown)  I decided to head to the lovely town of Malacca, Malaysia to settle for a bit.  Hoping to spend some time being still, I have big plans for long walks, market visits, catching up on all things internet and starting to apply to teaching positions.